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Fiber History
The history of fibers is as old as human civilization. Traces of
natural fibers have been located to ancient civilizations all
over the globe. For many thousand years, the usage of fiber was
limited by natural fibers such as flax, cotton, silk, wool and
plant fibers for different applications.
Fiber history can be divided into natural fibers and man-made or
chemical fibers. One of the most used natural fibers since
ancient times and a glimpse at thier brief history have been
listed here.
Flax
- The recorded usage of Flax can be dated back to
5000 BC and it is considered to be the oldest
natural textile fiber.
- There have been reported usage of fine linen used
in Egyptian pharaohs and tombs.
- One of the largest producers of Flax today include
the Soviet States, Poland, Germany, Belgium and
France while one of the key exporters are Northern
Ireland and Belgium.
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Cotton
More than 1,300 years ago, it is recorded as a singular fact
that an emperor named Ou-ti, wore on the occasion of his
accession to the throne of China, a cotton robe!
- Earliest use of cotton has been estimated between
3,000 BC to 5,000 BC.
- It is recorded to have been worn by Egyptians
prior to 2,500 BCThe invention of the cotton gin in
1793 revolutionized the processing of cotton.
- During 1884, the development of the power loom
brought about significant improvements and
variations to cotton fabrics.
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Major producers: United States, Soviet States, China and
India. Lessor producers include Pakistan, Brazil, Turkey, Egypt,
Mexico Iran and Sudan.
Wool
In the tombs and ruins of Egypt, Nineveh, and Babylon, in the
barrows of early Britons, and among the relics of the Peruvians,
fragments of woolen fabrics have been found.
- The Romans began to improve their flocks as early
as 200 BC, that later became the progenitors of the
popular Spanish Merino sheep.
- The dated usage of wool goes back to 3,000 BC and
it is known to have been used by people of the late
stone age.
- During the 18th century, England became the great
wool-producing country of Europe, and wool was the
staple of its industry until cotton began to
overshadow it.
- In 1788, the first factory in America using water
power to weave wool was established at Hartford,
Conn.
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There are 40 different breeds of sheep, which produce
approximately 200 types of wool of varying grades. The key
producers of wool are Australia, New Zealand, Soviet States,
China, South Africa, and Argentina.
Silk
Silk production and its roots in textile history is ancient,
variegated and unknown to many.
- · Pliny, the Roman historian, quoted in his
Natural History in 70 BC "Silk was obtained by
removing the down from the leaves with the help of
water…".
- For more than two thousand years the Chinese kept
the secret of silk altogether to themselves.
- It is believed to be discovered by a Chinese
princess. It was a guarded secret that passed
through many centuries till it was discovered.
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More recent archeological reveal a small ivory cup carved with a
silkworm design predicted to be between 6000 and 7000 years old.
Spinning tools, silk thread and fabric fragments were found from
sites along the lower Yangzi River in China and goes on to
unravel the origins of sericulture as being earlier than
recorded in history. There is a story that two monks smuggled
seeds of the mulberry tree and silkworm eggs out of China by
hiding them in their walking sticks. Silk is made from two
continuous filaments cemented together and used to form the
cocoon of the silkworm. It is again said that India learnt of
silk culture when a Chinese princess married an Indian prince.
The major producer and exporter of silk is Japan.
Manufactured/Man-made/Chemical fibers
In the year 1665, the English researcher Robert Hooke was the
first to describe in his book "Micrographia or some
physiological descriptions of minute bodies" the idea of
producing artificial silk from a gelatinous mass.
Starting from then to now, man made fiber production has reached
an estimate of more than 24 million ton. Used for different
applications such as modern apparel, home furnishings, medicine,
aeronautics, energy, industry, and more. Fiber engineers can
combine, modify and tailor fibers in ways far beyond the
performance limits of fiber drawn from the silkworm cocoon,
grown in the fields, or spun from the fleece of animals. Listed
here are the common fibers with their brief history and major
producers.
Rayon
Rayon was the first manufactured fiber. It was developed in
France in the 1890s and was originally also called as artificial
silk.
- In 1924, the term rayon was officially adopted by
the textile industry as a man-made fiber.
- It is different from most chemical fibers as rayon
is not synthetic.
- It is made from wood pulp, a naturally-occurring,
cellulose-based raw material.
- As a result, rayon's properties are more similar
to those of natural cellulosic fibers, such as
cotton or linen, than those of thermoplastic,
petroleum-based synthetic fibers such as nylon or
polyester.
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By using two different chemicals and manufacturing techniques,
four type of rayons was developed---Regular rayon, High Wet
Modulus (HWM) rayon , High Tenacity Rayon, Cupramonium Rayon
.Currently, two major companies manufacture rayon fiber for U.S.
markets. British companies manufactures viscose rayon in short
staple lengths and microfibers. Lenzing, based in Austria,
produces viscose rayon, high wet modulus or polynosic rayon,
microfibers, and long filament fibers which are used in linings
and dress fabrics like taffeta. Lenzing is the only company
currently manufacturing rayon in the United States. Overall,
rayon is manufactured primarily in Europe and Japan.
Acetate
The first commercial textile uses for acetate in fiber form were
developed by the Celanese Company in 1924.
- In 1893, Arthur D. Little of Boston invented a
cellulosic product called acetate. He developed it
as a film.
- By the year 1910, Camille and Henry Dreyfus
started making acetate motion picture film and
different toilet articles in Basel, Switzerland.
- It was during World War I, they built a plant in
England to produce cellulose acetate dope for
airplane wings and other commercial products.
- Upon entering the War, the United States invited
the Dreyfus brothers to build a plant in Maryland to
make the product for American warplanes.
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Nylon
Nylon's advent created a revolution in the fiber industry. Rayon
and acetate had been derived from plant cellulose, but nylon was
synthesized completely from petrochemicals.
- It established the basis for the ensuing discovery
of an entire new world of manufactured fibers.
- It was in the laboratory of American chemist
Wallace Carothers that Nylon, the miracle fiber was
born.
- While working in the laboratories of the DuPont
Company on giant molecules called polymers, Wallace
focused his work on a fiber simply called as
"66", which is a number derived from its
molecular structure.
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DuPont began commercial production of nylon in 1939. The first
testing used nylon fiber as sewing thread, in the creation of
parachute fabric, and also in women's hosiery. In February 1939,
Nylon stockings were first shown at the San Francisco
Exposition. During the World War II, nylon replaced Asian silk
in parachutes. It also found use in tires, tents, ropes,
ponchos, and other military supplies, and even was used in the
production of a high-grade paper for U.S. currency.
Acrylic
In 1944, Acrylic was developed by DuPont and was first
commercially produced in 1950.
- Acrylonitrile, the substance from which acrylic
fibers are produced, was first made in 1893 in
Germany.
- It was used as another chemical in research for
the DuPont Company.
- A new fiber, acrylic was added to the list of
generic names, as DuPont began production of this
wool-like product
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It was at first used for outdoor purposes. While technology has
allowed acrylic to come a long way, and it is now most commonly
used in apparel and carpets. DuPont ceased production of acrylic
in 1991, and only a handful of companies produce acrylic
today.The growing demand for acrylic increase in so do the
number of trade names for which acrylic is most known. Pil-Trol
is just one of the many trade names of acrylic and was developed
by Monsanto Chemical Company. It allows for the comfort and easy
care of acrylic without the pilling. Pills are the little balls
that form on fabric when fiber ends break and migrate to the
surface. Pilling is a disadvantage of acrylic, but has been
eliminated by the technology of Pil-Trol. Other trade names that
describe acrylic include:
- Acrilan
- Acrilan Plus
- Biofresh
- Bounce-Back
- Creslan
- CresLoft
- Duraspun
- Fi-lana
- Innova
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- MicroSafe
- MicroSupreme
- Salus
- Sayelle
- So-Lara
- Smart Yarns
- Ware-dated
- WeatherBloc
- Wintuck
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Polyester
Polyester began as a group of polymers in W.H. Carothers'
laboratory, the inventor of nylon fibers. Carothers was working
for DuPont at the time when he discovered that alcohols and
carboxyl acids could be successfully merged to create fibers.
Polyester was put on the back shelf once Carothers discovered
nylon. In 1939, his work was resumed by a group of British
scientists, J.R. Whinfield, J.T. Dickson, W.K. Birtwhistle, and
C.G. Ritchie. In 1941, they successfully created the first
polester fiber called Terylene. In 1946, DuPont bought all legal
rights from them and came up with another polyester fiber which
they named Dacron.
- In 1951, Polyester was first introduced to the
Americans.
- It was advertised as a miracle fiber that could be
worn for 68 days straight without ironing and it
would still not wrinkle.
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In 1958 another polyester fiber called Kodel was developed by
Eastman Chemical Products, Inc.
Ever since, the polyester market has been growing. Since it is
an inexpensive and durable fiber, small textile mills emerged
all over US. Polyester reached a constant growth until the 1970s
when sales drastically fell down due to the negative public
image that came up during the late 60s as a result of the
infamous polyester double-knit fabric! Today, polyester is still
widely regarded as a "cheap, uncomfortable" fiber, but
even now this image is slowly beginning to change with the
emergence of polyester luxury fibers such as polyester
microfiber.
Triacetate
In the year 1901, Arthur Eichengrün and Becker succeed in
directly acetylating cellulose to triacetate at Farbenfabriken,
formerly Friedr. Bayer & Co.
- In 1954, Celanese launched Arnel triacetate
filament yarn after overcoming significant technical
barriers.
- The first commercial production of triacetate
fiber in the United States by the Celanese
Corporation in 1954.
- Arnel is made from triacetate fibers from purified
wood cellulose which has been chemically bonded to
acetyl
- Domestic Triacetate production was discontinued in
1985.
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Spandex
Spandex was invented in 1959, and when first introduced it
revolutionized many areas of the clothing industry
- It is the stretchable fiber of bathing suits and
sports clothes, is stronger and more durable than
rubber, its major plant competitor.
- The first U.S. commercial spandex fiber production
began in 1959 by the DuPont Company.
- Spandex is an elastomeric man-made fiber (able to
stretch at least 100% and snap back like natural
rubber).
- A well-known trademark for spandex or elastane is
Invista's brand name Lycra; another trademark (also
Invista's) is Elaspan.
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Current U.S. spandex fiber producers: Invista; Bayer Corporation
Polyolefin/
Polypropylene
Polyolefin is a polymer.
- In 1966, polyolefin became the world's first and
only Nobel Prize-winning fiber due to its unique
eualities. It can float and is abrasion-resistant.
- It is a good insulator, dries very quickly and
resists deterioration from chemicals and
perspiration.
- It is used mainly in furnishings and high
performance activewear.In 1980, the production of
polyolefin hollow fiber membranes started.
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Lyocell
First produced in the US by Courtaulds Fibers , Lyocell was
known by the trade name Tencel.
- The first commercial production of lyocell began
in the U.S. during 1993, by Courtaulds Fibers.
- It is an environment friendly fiber,created from
the wood pulp of trees.
- It is processed using a solvent spinning technique
in which the dissolving agent is recycled, reducing
environment effluents.
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Microfibers
Microfiber was introduced in 1986. Microfibers is a variety of
polyester that has extremely thin filaments. As a synthetic it
provides us with control over its supply. Microfibers is derived
using technology and the result is to extrude extremely fine
filaments (less than 1.0 denier) while maintaining all of the
strength, uniformity and processing characteristics expected by
textile manufacturers and consumers.
- Microfiber as the sole constituent of a cloth will
wear and shed fiber with use, so it is best utilized
in combination with Nylon.
- It is tough, resilient, and can be manufactured to
extremely fine tolerances, many times thinner than
other synthetics.
- It is this strength, precision and absolute
sheerness as well as its phenomenal absorbency that
give rise to so many applications, including an
amazing ability to clean and dry surfaces.
- Microfiber yarns are now available for most major
generic fibers. They can bring their outstanding
performance to a wide variety of end uses.
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