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Narrow Fabrics                   FABRIC GLOSSARY
Embroidery Stitches                 SHARON'S DICTIONARY OF EMBROIDERY STITCHES
Cotton Plant Fibers Standard Worsted and Wool fibers Man Made Fibers Silk Fibers Specialty Fibers Miscellaneous Fibers
T
T  
  Tackspun Fabric

A Material Made From A Polymer Film With A Backing Substrate. The Film Is Melted By A Roller To Which It Adheres, Drawing Up A Fibrous Pile.

Tactel Brand A Du Pont Brand Of Filament Nylon Fiber.
Taffeta

A Plain Weave, Tightly Woven Smooth Crisp Fabric With A Characteristic Rustle. Made From Silk Or Man-made Filament Yarns.

Tag Wool The First Clip From A Sheep Not Shorn As A Lamb.
Tahband A Kind Of Girdle Or Belt.
Takauchiya

A Kind Pyjama (q.v.). Abu'i-fazl Describes It In The Ain-i-akbati As "a Coat Without Lining, Of The Indian Form. Formerly It Had Slits In The Skirt, And Was Tied On The Left Side; His Majesty Has Ordered It To Be Made With A Round Skirt And To Be Tied On The Right Side."

Tanis Tie-cords Or Strings Used To Fasten Or Tighten A Garment When Worn.
Tape (textile)

(1) A Woven Narrow Fabric, Generally Plain-weave, Used In Non-loadbearing Applications And The Reinforcing Of Fabrics To Resist Wear And Deformation. (2) A Long Narrow Flat Structure With Textile-like Properties Made From Thermoplastic Polymer, Paper, Or Other Appropriate Material.

Tape Yarn

A Yarn Which Comprises A Tape With A Large Width-to-thickness Ratio, And Which Has An Apparent Width Not Exceeding An Agreed Limit (e.g., 5mm Or 8mm). Note: Such Yarns Are Usually Of Paper Or Are Formed By Slitting A Wide Film Of (usually) Polyethylene Or Polypropylene Polymer Into Individual Tapes, With Hot-stretching Either Before Or After Slitting To Induce High Longitudinal Strength. The Draw Ratio In Hot-stretching Is Kept Low Enough To Avoid Excessive Longitudinal Fibrillation. The Tape Yarn So Produced Is Suitable For Weaving.

Tape, Oriented

A Tape Made By Extruding A Thermoplastic Polymer, Usually A Polyolefin, In The Form Of A Sheet Or Film, Slitting The Sheet Into Tapes And Hot-stretching To Induce Molecular Orientation And Hence High Longitudinal Strength.

Taper To Decrease Width Gradually And Bring It To An End Point.
Taper Line Gratings

Transparent Plates Containing Lines More Widely Spaced At One End Than The Other. By Selecting The Appropriate Taper Line Grating And Placing It Parallel To A Set Of Threads In A Woven Fabric, It Is Possible To Ascertain The Number Of Threads Per Unit Length (cm Or Inch) As A Result Of A Star Form Created. These Gratings Can Also Be Used To Determine The Number Of Courses Per Unit Length In Weft-knitted Fabrics, Or The Number Of Dents Per Unit Length In A Reed.

Tapestry

A Closely Woven Figured Fabric Of Compound Structure In Which A Pattern Is Developed By The Use Of Coloured Yarns In The Warp Or In The Weft Or Both. A Fine Binder Warp And Weft May Be Incorporated. It Normally Used For Upholstery. Note: Originally The Term Was Applied To Furnishing Fabrics In Which The Design Was Produced By Means Of Coloured Threads Inserted By Hand As Required. Modern Tapestry Fabrics Are Woven On Jacquard Looms, Coloured Yarns Being Used To Produce The Desired Pattern. There Are Various Fabric Structures In Which Two Or More Warps And Wefts Of Different Materials May Be Used. The Face Of The Fabric Is Usually Of Uniform Texture, The Design Being Developed In Various Colours, But In Some Tapestry Fabrics Figures Of The Brocade Type Formed By Floating Some Of The Threads Are Also To Be Found.

 
Tartan

Refers To The Kinds Of Plaid Patterns Traditionally Worn By Scottish Highlanders . Each Design Was Associated With A Specific Family Or "clan". The Term Is Generally Used To Today In Reference To Any Plaid Design Similar To These Scottish Designs.

Taslan A Du Pont Trademark For A Method Of Bulking And Texturizing Yarn Using Compressed Air.
Tasteless The Basques Of Early 17th Century Doublets.
Tattersall A Simple Overcheck Design, Usually A Thin Check Of One Or 2 Colors On A Contrasting Color Ground.
Tear The Ratio Of Top To Noil Produced In Combing.
Teazle; Teazel; Teasel

The Dried Seed-head Of The Plant Dipsacus Fullonum (fullers Thistle) Used To Raise A Pile Or Nap On Certain Fabrics. The Machine Used For This Purpose Is Known As A Teazle Gig.

Teentah Topi A Topi (q.v.) Consisting Of Three Different Pieces, Stitched Together.
Teflon A Water Repellent, Stain Resistant Finish Applied To Fabric . Trademark Of Du Pont Co.
Temporary Set

The Process Of Conferring Temporary Stability Of Form Upon Fibres, Yarns, Or Fabrics, Usually By Means Of Successive Heating And Cooling In Moist Or Dry Conditions.

Tenacity See Breaking Stress
Tencel Brand Acordis Co.'s Brand Of Lyocell Cellulosic Fiber.
Tensile Test A Test In Which The Resistance Of A Material To Stretching In One Direction Is Measured
Terry

A Fabric With Uncut Loops On One Or Both Sides . May Be Woven Or Knit. Used For Toweling, Robes. Knit Versions Such As French Terry Have Loops On One Side And Are Sometimes Brushed To Produce A Fleece.

 
Tex The Basic Unit Of The Tex System
Tex Is A Recognized Si Unit.
See Also Count, Hank, Lea (cotton), Flax Yarn Bundle
Tex System

A System Of Expressing Linear Density (mass Per Unit Length) Of Fibres, Filaments, Slivers, And Yarns, Or Other Linear Textile Material. The Basic Unit Is The Tex, Which Is The Mass In Grams Of One Kilometre Of The Product. Multiples And Sub-multiples Recommended For Use In Preference To Other Possible Combinations Are: kilogram Per Kilometre, Designated Kilotex (ktex); Decigram Per Kilometre, Designated Decitex (dtex);and Milligram Per Kilometre, Designated Millitex (mtex).

Textile

Originally A Woven Fabric But The Term Is Now Applied To Fibres, Filaments, Or Yarns, Natural Man-made, And Products Obtained From Them. Note: For Example, Threads, Cords, Ropes, Braids, Lace, Embroidery, Nets, And Fabrics Made By Weaving, Knitting, Felting, Bonding, And Tufting Are Textiles. Used As An Adjective, Descriptive Of Fibrous Or Filamentous Manufactures And Of The Raw Materials, Processes, Machines, Buildings, And Personnel Used In The Organizations Connected With, And The Technology Of, Their Manufacture.

Textile Film

A Man-made Textile Material In Film Form Within Which Molecular Orientation Is Predominantly In The Longitudinal Direction. Note: Polymer Films For Non-textile Use Are Commonly Unoriented Or Bi-axially Oriented, But Uni-axial Orientation Is Present In Some Cases.

Textile Glass (fibre) (generic name)
The Name Used To Describe Glass Fibres That Are Suitable For Textile Applications.
Textured Yarn

A Continuous-filament Yam That Has Been Processed To Introduce Durable Crimps, Coils, Loops Or Other Fine Distortions Along The Lengths Of The Filaments. Note 1: The Main Texturing Procedures Which Are Usually Applied To Continuous-filament Yarns Made From Or Containing Thermoplastic Fibres, Are: (a) The Yarn Is Highly Twisted, Heat-set And Untwisted Either As A Process Of Three Separate Stages (now Obsolescent) Or As A Continuous Process (false-twist Texturing). In An Infrequently Used Alternative Method, Two Yarns Are Continuously Folded Together, Heat-set, Then Separated By Unfolding; (b) The Yam Is Injected Into A Heated Stuffer Box Either By Feed Rollers Or Through A Plasticizing Jet Of Hot Fluid (invariably Air Or Steam). The Jet Process Is Sometimes Known As Jet Texturing, Hot-air Jet Texturing, Or Steam-jet Texturing; (c) The Yam Is Plasticized By Passage Through A Jet Of Hot Fluid And Is Impacted On To A Cooling Surface (impact Texturing); (d) The Heated Yam Is Passed Over A Knife-edge (edge Crimping), (now Obsolete); (e) The Heated Yarn Is Passed Between A Pair Of Gear Wheels Or Through Some Similar Device (gear Crimping); (f) The Yam Is Knitted Into A Fabric That Is Heat-set And Then Unravelled (knit-deknit Texturing); (g) The Yam Is Over-fed Through A Turbulent Air Stream (air-texturing, Air-jet Texturing), So That Entangled Loops Are Formed In The Filaments; (h) The Yarn Is Composed Of Bicomponent Fibres And Is Subjected To A Hot And/or Wet Process Whereby Differential Shrinkage Occurs. Note 2: Procedures (a) And (d) In Note I Above Gives Yams Of A Generally High-stretch Character. This Is Frequently Reduced By Re-heating The Yam In A State Where It Is Only Partly Relaxed From The Fully Extended Condition, Thus Producing A Stabilized Yarn With The Bulkiness Little Reduced But With A Much Reduced Retractive Power. Note 3: The Procedure (g) May Also Be Applied To Fibres Which Are Not Thermoplastic.

Thermal Fabric

A Knit Or Woven Fabric Constructed So As To Trap Warm Air Between The Yarns. Often In A Waffle Or Honeycomb Texture. Used For Blankets. Underwear.

Thermally Bonded Nonwoven Fabric

Textile Fabric Composed Of A Web Or Batt Of Fibres Containing Heat-sensitive Material, Bonded By The Application Of Heat, With Or Without Pressure. The Heat-sensitive Materials May Be In The Form Of Fibres, Bicomponent Fibres Or Powders.

Thermoplastic

Deformable By Applied Heat And Pressure Without Any Accompanying Chemical Change. The Deformation Is Reversible.

Thick & Thin A Fabric With A Mottled Appearance, Made From A Filament Yarn With Varying Thickness.
Thickener

A Substance Used To Increase The Viscosity Of A Print Paste Or Other Fluid, In Order To Control Its Flow Properties. Natural Polymers (starch, Alginates, Etc.,), Chemical Modifications Thereof, Synthetic Polymers, Emulsions, Foams And Clays Can Be Used.

Thread

(1) The Result Of Twisting Together In One Or More Operations Two Or More Single, Folded, Or Cabled Yarns (2) A Product As Defined In (1) Intended Particularly For Sewing Purposes. (known Also As Sewing Thread.) (3) A Component Of Silk Yarn. It Is The Product Of Winding Together Without Twist A Number Of Baves. A Three-thread Silk Yarn Is The Result Of Folding Three Such Products Together (4) A Textile Yam In General.

Thread Count

Is The Number Of Warp And Weft Yarns In One Square-inch Of A Fabric (warp Yarn X Weft Yarn Per Sq. Inch)

Throw

A Term, Of Germanic And Anglo-saxon Origin, Used Especially In The Silk And Man-made Fibre Industries To Describe The Twisting Or Folding Of Continuous-filament Yams. Note. The Term Throwster Was Traditionally Used To Describe An Individual Or Company Specifically Involved With These Twisting Processes, But, In More Recent Times, The Title Has Also Been Inherited By Those Who Manufacture Textured Yarns By The False-twist Method.

Tick Weave Fabric With A Small Allover Pattern Or Texture, Often Using 2 Contrasting Colors.
Ticking

A General Term For A Strong, Tightly Woven Fabric Most Often Used For Mattress And Box Spring Covers But Also For Workwear And Other Apparel. Often Found In A Pattern Of Narrow Stripes On Either Side Of A Wider Stripe. They Are Commonly Dark Warp Stripes On A White Ground.

Tie Dyed

A Hand Method Of Dyeing That Involves Gathering Small Portions Of The Fabric And Tying Them Tightly Before Dyeing. The Tied Areas Resist Penetration Of The Dye, Resulting In Irregular Patterns. Also Refers To Similar Designs Created By Machine Methods.

Tiki A Round Piece; Generally Tacked On To A Garment.
Tinsel Yarn

A Textile Yarn Or Thread, Combined, Coated, Or Covered With A Shiny Substance, Often Metallic (e.g., Aluminium, Occasionally Gold Or Silver), To Produce A Glittering Or Sparkling Effect.

Tippet From The 16th Century Onwards It Meant A Short Shoulder Cape.
Tippy Wool.

Wool In Which The Tip Portions Of The Fibres Have Been So Damaged By Weathering During Growth As To Have Markedly Different Dyeing Properties.

Tissue Faille

A Lightweight, Plain Weave, Filament Yarn Fabric Characterized By A Narrow Crosswise Rib. Used For Blouses And Dresses.

Tone On Tone

1. A Fabric With A Pattern Consisting Of 2 Or More Shades Of The Same Color. 2. Piece Dyed Dobbies In Which The Dobby Effect Takes On A Different Tone By Virtue Of The Weave, Light Reflection Or Types Of Yarn Used.

Top

(1) Sliver That Forms The Starting Material For The Worsted And Certain Other Drawing Systems, Usually Obtained By The Process Of Combing, And Characterized By The Following Properties: (a) The Absence Of Fibres So Short As To Be Uncontrolled In The Preferred System Of Drawing; (b) A Substantially Parallel Formation Of The Fibres; (c) A Substantially Homogeneous Distribution Throughout The Sliver Of Fibres From Each Length-group Present. Note 1: Tops Are Usually Produced By Carding And Combing, Or By Preparing And Combing On Worsted Machinery, But Recent Years Have Seen The Introduction Of Top-making By The Cutting Or Controlled Breaking Of Continuous-filament Tows Of Man-made Fibres, And The Assembly Of The Resultant Staple Fibres Into Sliver In A Single Machine. Note 2: The Advent Of Man-made Fibres Has Meant The Introduction Of Staple-fibre Top Into The Flax, Jute, Spun Silk, And Other Drawing Systems. (2) The Form Or Package In Which Sliver Is Delivered, E.g., Ball Top Or Bump Top.

Top Dyed

A Fiber Dyeing Method In Which Dye In Applied To Combed Fibers In An Untwisted Or Loosely Twisted Rope Form (called Top Or Sliver ) . Sometimes Dye Is Applied Or Printed On The Fiber At Regular Intervals To Give A Melange Effect . Top Dyeing Results In Good Colorfastness.

Topham Box. A Device For Twisting And Winding A Wet-spun Continuous-filament Yarn So As To Produce A Cake
Torchon Lace

An Inexpensive, Sturdy, Machine Made Lace Using Thick Threads In Simple Designs On A Mesh Ground . Often With Scalloped Edges. Also Called Beggar's Lace.

Tow (flax Or Hemp)
Any Substantially Clean Fibre Of Less Than Scutched Length.
Tow (man-made fibres)
An Assemblage Of A Large Number Of Substantially Parallel Filaments With Little Or No Twist.
Tow, Machine Tow Produced By A Hackling Machine.
Tow, Straw

Flax Straw In Tossed And Broken Condition, Resulting From Threshing A Flax Crop Too Poor For Normal Processing

Tower High Female Headdress Fashionable In The Late 17th And Early 18th Century.
Tow-to-top

A Process In Which Heavy Continuous-filament Yam, Having No Twist And A Substantially Parallel Alignment Of The Filaments, Is Cut Or Broken Into Staple And Drafted Into A Sliver As A Continuous Process. It Is Characteristic Of The Process That The Tow Does Not Lose Its Form, Although The Filaments Are Broken Down Into Short Lengths, But Is Only Attenuated In The Drafting Process.

Tram A Silk Weft Yarn Comprising Two Or More Threads Run Together And Then Twisted With 2 Or 4 Turns/cm.
Transfer Printing

Any Process By Which A Design Is Transferred From Paper To Another Substrate. Several Techniques Have Been Used, Viz Melt-transfer, Film-release, And Wet-transfer, But Vapour Transfer (sublimation Transfer) Is The Most Important. Selected Disperse Dyes Transfer In Vapour Form To Thermoplastic Fibres When The Printed Paper And Fabric Are Brought Into Close Contact In A Transfer Press At 170°-220°c.

Trapunto

A Form Of Quilting In Which A Design Is Stitched Through 2 Layers Of Fabric. The Lower Layer Is Than Slit And Batting Or Fiberfill Is Inserted To Raise The Design To A High Relief.

Trash (cotton)

A Loose Term Embracing, In Its Widest Sense, The Non-fibrous Foreign Matter Present In Bales Of Raw Cotton Other Than Abnormal Items, Such As Stone, Timber, Pieces Of Old Iron, Etc. Note 1: Normal Whole Seeds, Either Ginned Or Un-ginned, Are Frequently Excluded From This Category But Broken Portions Of Them And Also Whole Or Broken Undeveloped Seeds Are Usually Regarded As Trash. Note2, The Main Component Of Trash Is Chaff And Dirt In The Form Of Soil Or Sand.

Trend

Fashion Is Not Static, They Are Constantly Moving, Their Movement Has A Definite Direction. The Direction In Which Fashion Moves Is Called Fashion Trend.

Triacetate (fibre) (generic Name)

A Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Cellulose Ethanoate (cellulose Acetate) Wherein At Least 92% Of The Hydroxyl Groups Of The Original Cellulose Are Ethanoylated (acetylated).

Tricorne From French Late 18th Century Term For Hat With Turned Up Brim And Having Three Corners.
Tricot

A Common Warp Knit Fabric With Thin Wales On The Face And Crosswise Ribs On The Back . Generally Made Of Synthetic Yarns Such As Polyester, Nylon, Acetate Or Rayon.

Tricotine A Woven Fabric With A Distinct Steep Double Twill Line. Used For Trousers Dresses, Women's Sportswear.
Trim

To Cut Off The Ragged Edges Below The Seam Line To Prevent The Garment From Being Bulky And To Give The Seam A Neat Finish.

Tristimulus Values

The Amounts Of Three Defined Primaries (usually Blue, Red And Green) Required To Be Mixed Additively To Match The Colour Of The Object, Under Defined Conditions.

Trivinyl (fibre) (generic Name)

A Term Used To Describe Fibres Made From A Synthetic Terpolymer Of Cyanoethene (acrylonitrile), A Chlorinated Vinyl Monomer And A Third Vinyl Monomer, None Of Which Represents As Much As 50% Of The Total Mass.

Tropical

A General Term For Crisp Lightweight Suiting Fabrics. They Often Use Fine Or High Twist Yarns For A Porous Construction . May Be A Variety Of Fibers And Weaves . Primarily Used For Warm Weather Suits.

Trousses

In The 17th Century The Upper Hose Which Did Not Hang Down, But Fitted The Thighs Tightly. They Are A Survival Of The 16th Century Grègues, Preserved In The Ceremonial Costume Of Knights Of The King's Order And In Pages' Costumes.

True Hemp See Hemp, True
Tubular A Knit Fabric Made On A Circular Knitting Machine And Shipped Without Being Slit To Open Width Form.
Tuck Stitch

A Knit Stitch That Results In Open Spaces At Regular Intervals On The Fabric By Having Some Needles Hold More Than One Loop At A Time.

Tukma Small, Button-like Boss Used In Conjunction With A Ghundi (q.v.) Or Loop, For Fastening.
Tulle

A Soft, Fine, Transparent Net Originally Made Of Silk But Now Made Of Synthetics. Usually Has A Hexagonal Mesh. Used In Evening Wear And Bridal Veils.

Tussah

Silk Fabric Made From The Strong, Coarse, Uneven, Light Brown Color Silk Produced By Wild, Uncultivated Silkworms.

Tussah Silk

A Coarse Silk Produced By A Wild Silkworm. There Are Three Main Types: Antheraea Mylitta (largely Indian), Antheraea Pernyi (largely Chinese), And Antheraea Yama-mai (largely Japanese). It Is Brown In Colour And Is Usually Spun, Since Most Cocoons Cannot Be Reeled. Note: The Spelling 'tussah', Although Considered Erroneous By Etymologists, Is In Common Usage In The Textile Industry For The Name Given To Fibres And Filaments.

Tussore

A Fabric Woven From The Coarse Wild Silk Called Tussah. Note: The Spelling 'tussore', Although Considered Erroneous By Etymologists, Is In Common Usage In The Textile Industry For The Name Given To Fabrics.

Twaddell

A Scale Used For The Measurement Of The Specific Gravity Of Liquids By Hydrometry. The Following Formula Expresses The Relationship Between Specific Gravity (sg), And Degrees Twaddell (tw), For Liquids Heavier Than Water:

Tweed

Originally A Coarse, Heavy-weight, Rough-surfaced Wool Fabric For Outerwear, Woven In Southern Scotland. The Term Is Now Applied To Fabrics Made In A Wide Range Of Weights And Qualities From Woollen-spun Yams In A Variety Of Weave Effects And Colour-and-weave Effects .

Twill

A General Term For A Woven Fabric Made With A Twill Weave, A Basic Weave Characterized By Diagonal Lines On The Face Of The Fabric.

Twist

The Condition Of A Yarn Or Similar Structure When The Component Elements Have A Helical Disposition Such As Results, For Instance, From Relative Rotation Of The Yarn Ends. For All Practical Purposes Twist Is Measured In Turns, But For Purely Theoretical Work Its Measurement In Radians (the Si Unit) Often Leads To Much Simpler Mathematical Expressions.

Twist Angle The Angle Between The Path Of A Yarn Element And The Yarn Axis.
Twist Direction

Twist Is Described As 's' Or 'z' According To Which Of These Letters Has Its Centre Inclined In The Same Direction As The Surface Elements Of A Given Twisted Yarn.

Twist Factor; Twist Multiplier

In A Yarn, The Product Of Twist Level And The Square Root Of The Linear Density. Note: Where Units Of Specific Length Are In Use, The Corresponding Factor Is The Quotient Of The Twist Level And The Square Root Of The Count.

Twist Level

The Amount Of Twist Per Unit Length Of A Yarn. Note: With The Exception Of False-twisting , The Length Is Normally Assumed To Be That In The Twisted Form But, When Necessary, Ambiguity Can Be Avoided By Stating, For Example, Turns Per Twisted Metre Or Turns Per Untwisted Metre.

Twist Liveliness

The Tendency Of A Yam To Twist Or Untwist Spontaneously. Note 1: Examples Of Effects Which May Be Caused By Twist Liveliness Include Snarling Of Yarns During Processing And Spirality In Knitted Fabrics.

Twist Multiplier; Twist Factor
In A Yarn, The Product Of Twist Level And The Square Root Of The Linear Density.
Twistless Spinning

A System Of Yarn Formation That Relies On The Use Of A Permanent Or Temporary Adhesive To Bond Fibres Together. Note: Where A Temporary Adhesive Is Used It Is Removed During Fabric Finishing, And The Yarn (and Fabric) Strength Is Then Obtained Through Lateral Pressure Produced By The Interlacings In The Fabric. A Similar Fabric Construction Can Be Achieved By Using Wrap Spun Yarns Which Have Been Produced With A Soluble Binder.

Twistless Yarn

A Yarn Prepared Without Twist In Order To Obtain Special Properties, E.g., Increased Softness And Dyeability.

Twitty

Descriptive Of An Irregular Yarn Or Stubbing In Which Local Concentrations Of Twist Have Accentuated The Irregular Appearance.

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