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Rabat |
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In
The 17th Century The Rabat Was A Collar Of Linen And Lace Worn Over
The Doublet. Ecclesiastics Wore A Narrower Rabat And This Accessory
For Ecclesiastical Town Dress Remained In Use For A Long Time
Afterwards.

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| Rabbit
Hair |
Fur
From The Common Or Wild Rabbit.
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| Rack
Stitch |
A
Knitting Stitch That Produces A Herringbone Effect With A Rib Back.
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| Raffia |
A
Fibre Obtained From The Leaves Of The Raffia Palm Raphia Raffia.
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| Rags
(new) |
The
Waste Fabric, Whether Woven Or Knitted, That Is Left After A Garment
Has Been Cut Out. The Term Also Covers Piece Ends And Discarded
Pattern Bunches.

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| Rags
(old) |
Worn
Garments That Have Been Discarded.
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| Raising |
The
Production Of A Layer Of Protruding Fibres On The Surface Of Fabrics
By Brushing, Teazing, Or Rubbing.

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| Ramie |
A
Bast Fibre Obtained From The Stems Of Boehmeria Nivea Gaud,
Especially The Variety Tenacissima Belonging To The Urticaceae Or
Nettle Family. It Usually Reaches European Markets In The Form Of
Ribbons.

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| Raschel |
Refers
To Knit Fabric Made A A Raschel Machine, A Warp Knitting Machine
Capable Of A Wide Variety Of Intricate Designs, Various Surface
Textures, And Open Work Effects.

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| Raschel
Lace |
A
Lace Fabric Knit On A Raschel Machine. Usually Moderately Priced.
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| Rate
Of Dyeing. |
The
Rate At Which A Dye Is Absorbed By A Substrate Under Specified
Conditions. Note: It May Be Expressed Quantitatively In Several
Ways, Such As The Weight Of Dye Absorbed In Unit Time, Or The Time
Taken For The Substrate To Absorb A Given Fraction Of The Amount Of
Dye Which It Will Absorb At Equilibrium.

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| Ratine |
A
Plain Weave , Loosely Constructed Fabric With A Rough, Nubby Texture
Resulting From The Use Of Ratine Yarn, A Knotted, Curly, Plied Yarn.
Used For Drapery, Dresses And Women's Sportswear.

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| Raw
Silk |
Continuous
Filaments Or Strands Containing No Twist, Drawn Off Or Reeled From
Silk Cocoons.
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| Rayon
(fibre) (USA) |
A
Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated
Cellulose, As Well As Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated
Cellulose In Which Substituents Have Replaced Not More Than 15% Of
The Hydrogens Of The Hydroxyl Groups. The Iso Generic Names Are
Viscose, Modal And Cupro.

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Reaction
Spinning (man-made-fibre Production)
 |
A
Process In Which Polymerization Is Achieved During The Extrusion Of
Reactants Through A Spinneret System. |
| Reactive
Dye |
A
Dye That, Under Suitable Conditions, Is Capable Of Reacting
Chemically With A Substrate
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| Reactive
Dyed |
Water
Soluble Dyes That Bond Well To Cellulosic And Nylon Fibers. Provide
Good Brightness And Colorfastness.

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| Re-breaking |
The
Shortening Of Fibres In A Sliver Or Top By A Process Similar In
Principle To Stretch Breaking. Re-breaking May Be Intended To
Shorten A Limited Number Of Over Length Fibres Or To Reduce The
Average Length.

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| Recommended
Allowance |
The
Percentage That, In The Calculation Of Commercial Weight Of Textile
Material And Of Yarn Linear Density Is Added To The Oven-dry Weight.
The Determination Of This Weight May Or May Not Be Preceded By
Washing To Remove Natural Or Added Oils And Dressings. The
Recommended Allowance Is Arbitrarily Chosen According To Commercial
Practice And Includes The Moisture Regain. It May Also Include The
Normal Finish That Is Added To Impart Satisfactory Textile Qualities
To The Material.

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| Redox
Potential |
The
Potential Developed When A Bright Platinum Electrode Is Immersed In
A Solution Containing An Ionic Species In Two Interconvertible
Oxidation (valency) States. The Potential Is Dependent Upon The
Ratio Of The Concentrations Of The Two Oxidation States, E.g., Iron
Ii And Iron Iii Ions; 4-dihydroxybenzene (hydroquinone) And
1,4-benzoquinone (p-benzoquinone); Vat Dye And Leuco Vat Dye. Note:
The Standard Redox Potential, E, Is That Developed When The
Concentrations Of The Two Oxidation States Are Equal To Each Other,
And In Vat Dye Systems Indicates The Difficulty With Which The Vat
Dye (the Oxidized State) Can Be Reduced.

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| Regain |
The
Weight Of Moisture Present In A Textile Material Expressed As A
Percentage Of The Oven-dry Weight
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| Regenerated
Cellulose Fibre |
A
Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated
Cellulose, As Well As Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated
Cellulose In Which Substituents Have Replaced Not More Than 15% Of
The Hydrogens Of The Hydroxyl Groups. The Iso Generic Names Are
Viscose, Modal And Cupro.

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| Regenerated
Fibre |
A
Man-made Fibre Produced From A Naturally Occurring Fibre-forming
Polymer By A Process That Includes Regeneration Of The Original
Polymer Structure.

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Regenerated
Protein Fibre
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A
Term Used To Describe Fibres Obtained From Natural Protein
Substances By Chemical Regeneration. |
| Relative
Humidity |
The
Ratio Of The Actual Pressure Of The Water Vapour In The Atmosphere
To The Saturation Water Vapour At The Same Temperature. The Ratio Is
Usually Expressed As A Percentage E.g. 65 % Rh.

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| Relaxation |
The
Releasing Of Stresses In Textile Materials.
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| Rep |
A
Plain Weave Fabric With Ridges In The Filling. Used For Drapery,
Upholstery, Neckties, Robes.
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| Repeating
Unit |
A
Chemical Group That Recurs In The Backbone Of A Polymer.
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Residual
Shrinkage
 |
The
Latent Shrinkage Of A Fibre, Filament, Yam, Or Fabric. |
| Resin
Treated |
A
Fabric That Has Been Treated With A Synthetic Film-forming Polymer
(resin) . This May Be Done To Make The Fabric Firmer, Heavier, More
Stable, To Add Wrinkle Resistance, To Reduce Shrinkage Or To Create
Surface Effect Such As Embossing Or Glazing.

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| Resist
Printed |
A
Chemical Is Printed On Certain Areas Of The Fabric To Make Those
Areas Resistant To Dye. Allows For The Printing Of Small Or Fine
Motifs In The Design..

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| Retexturing |
A
Process For Treating Dry-cleaned Garments, Etc., To Improve Their
Properties, Particularly Water Repellence And Handle.

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| Retractive
Force (textured Yarn) |
The
Tension In A Textured Yarn Due To The Formation Of Crimp In The
Filaments Under Specified Conditions Of Crimp Development.

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| Retting
(flax) |
The
Subjection Of Crop Or Deseeded Straw To Chemical Or Biological
Treatment To Make Fibre Bundles More Easily Separable From The Woody
Part Of The Stem. Flax Is Described As Water-retted, Dew-retted Or
Chemically-retted, Etc., According To The Process Employed.

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| Reused
Wool |
Wool
Rags And Manufactured Waste, Torn Up And Reprocessed Into Fibres
Again, And Used For Such Fabrics As Are Composed Of Shoddy And Mungo
Yarns.

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| Rhinegraves |
See
Petticoat Breeches. They Are Said To Derive From Holland Or Germany.
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| Rhinestones |
Faceted,
Highly Refractive, Imitation Gemstones That Are Attached To The
Fabric For Decorative Purposes.
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| Rib |
1.
Any Fabric With A Cord Or Ridge Effect . 2. A Knit Fabric Made With
Plain Stitches Alternating With Purl Stitches. Rib Knits Have
Natural Stretch Properties.

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| Ring
Spinning |
A
Spinning System In Which Twist Is Inserted In A Yarn By Using A
Revolving Traveller. The Yarn Is Wound On Since The Rotational Speed
Of The Package Is Greater Than That Of The Traveller.

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| Ring
Spun |
A
Yarn Spinning Method In Which Roving ( A Thin Strand Of Fiber With
Very Little Twist) Is Fed To A "traveler" With Rotates
Around The Edge Of A Ring. Inside The Ring Is A Faster Rotating
Bobbin . The Process Simultaneously Twists The Roving Into Yarn And
Winds It Around The Bobbin. Ring Spun Yarns Are Generally Stronger
Than Open End Yarns.

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| Ripening |
(1)
A Process In The Production Of Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate)
Consisting In The Splitting Off Of Some Of The Ethanoic Acid (acetic
Acid) And Most Of The Combined Catalyst Present In The Primary
Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate). (2) A Process In The Manufacture Of
Viscose In Which, Prior To Spinning, The Number Of Xanthate Groups
Is Reduced And Some Redistribution Takes Place. The Process Is Time
And Temperature Dependent.

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| Ripping |
The
Operation Of Removing Cotton Or Man-made Fibre Linings From Garments
Prior To The Sorting And Classification Of Rags.

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| Ripstop |
A
Woven Fabric With Corded Yarns Spaced At Regular Intervals In Both
The Warp And Filling, Forming Squares On The Surface Of The Fabric.
Originally Intended So A Tear In The Fabric Would Not Spread. Used
Mainly For Outerwear And Active Wear.

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| Robe |
Originally
This Described All The Furniture And Effects Belonging To A Person,
Then The Meaning Was Gradually Reduced Until It Denotes A Person's
Collection Of Clothing.
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Robe
À L'anglaise
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Mid-
To Second Half Of 18th Century Dress That Was Made With A Fitted
Back Called "en Fourreau". |
| Robe
De Chambre / Robe Volante |
In
The 17th Century The Word Had Nothing Of The Modern Sense Of Déshabillé,
It Was Simply A Gown Differing From The Court Gown, And Was Admitted
To The Chambres Of The Royal Apartments Outside Receptions And
Ceremonies.

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| Roller
Printed |
A
Method Of Printing By Passing The Fabric Over Metal Rollers On Which
The Design Has Been Engraved. One Roller Is Used For Each Color.
Used For Printing Long Runs With Good Register And A Clear, Sharp
Design.

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| Rolling
(flax) |
The
More General Term Is Breaking And Consists Of Deformation Of The
Plant Structure By Flattening The Stem, Loosening The Bond Between
The Fibre Bundles And The Wood, And Breaking The Woody Part Into
Short Pieces, To Facilitate Their Removal From The Fibre By
Scutching.

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| Rose
Point Lace |
A
Needlepoint Lace With Floral Patterns Connected By Bars. Similar To
Venitian Lace But With Smaller Patterns.

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| Rotary
Screen Printed |
In
Screen Printing A Separate Screen Is Created For Each Color . The
Open Mesh Part Of The Screen Corresponds To The Area To Be Printed
In That Color. The Areas Where Color Is Not To Pass Through Are
Blocked. Dye Paste Is Forced Through The Open Mesh Area With A
Squeegee. In Rotary Screen Printing The Squeegees Are Contained
Within Cylindrical Screens Aligned One After The Other, And The
Fabric Moves Continuously. Rotary Printing Is A Much Faster Process
Than Flat Screen Printing But The Pattern Repeat Is Limited By The
Circumference Of The Cylinders.

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| Rotor
Spinning |
A
Method Of Open-end Spinning Which Uses A Rotor (a High Speed
Centrifuge) To Collect A Individual Fibres Into A Yarn, The Fibres
On Entering A Rapidly Rotating Rotor Are Distributed Around Its
Circumference And Temporarily Held There By Centrifugal Force. The
Yarn Is Withdrawn From The Rotor Wall And, Because Of The Rotation,
Twist Is Generated.

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| Roughing
(scutched Flax) |
A
Preliminary Hand Hackling Operation Involving The Removal Of Tangled
And Short Fibres By Means Of A Roughing Tool.

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| Roughing-out
(flax) |
The
Rough Separation Of The Seed From The Chaff, Short Straw, Weeds, And
Other Extraneous Material Produced During De-seeding.

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| Roving |
A
Name Given, Individually Or Collectively, To The Relatively Fine
Fibrous Strands Used In The Later Or Final Processes Of Preparation
For Spinning.

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| Rubber-like |
Having
A Hand Suggesting Rubber.
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| Ruff |
Stiffened
Frill Of Lace Or Pleated Linen, Worn In The 16th And Early 17th
Centuries. A Forerunner Of Falling Band And Cravats.

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| Rug,
Scutching (flax) |
The
Partly Scutched Short Straws That Fall Below The Two Compartments Of
A Scutching Machine After (a) The Shives Have Been Shaken Out Of It,
Or (b) The Waste Made During The Production Of Scutched Flax On A
Wheel.

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