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Embroidery
of Punjab
 
Phulkari of Punjab Just
as Bagh means Garden, Phulkari means Flower craft.
For, in their ultimate effect they are veritable flower
gardens - rich
and colourful.
This art is associated with the "Jat" tribe - the
cultivators and namads. The Jat carried their art wherever
they went and therefore this kind of embroidery is also
found in Rajasthan and Gujarat. As mentioned in the
introduction, it has a close affinity to Baluchi style of
embroidery.

The Phulkari Chaddar in olden days was the pride of the
village maiden as it formed a part of her wedding trousseau
prepared with lots of love and sentiments by her mother
after days of patient toil.
There are many kinds of Phulkari and Bagh.
'Shaloo' - Shawl meant for daily use made in red thick
Khadi.
'Til Patra' - is with very little embroidery.
'Nilak' - Navy blue or black khadi embroidered in
triangular shapes on that part 'Ghunghat Bagh' - veil
shawls are embroidered in triangular shapes on that part
which covers the head and the apex pointed towards the back.
'Chop & Suber' - are slightly larger than the
ordinary Phulkari.
Today very few of these masterpieces are made. The Suber is
red in colours and worn by the bride while performing a
particular rite of the marriage.
Shishadhar embroidery has embedded mirrors like the
embroidery of Kaccha and Kathiawad. The material used is
chocolate brown or red.In this style of Phulkari, a double
running stitch like the Karnatik is also used.
Bed covers, ribes, stoles, wall-hangings and dresses are
embroidered in this style and especially in red, maroon and
navy blue. Colours used in this embroidery are mainly
orange, lemon, bright pink, white, and green. A speciality
is - the embroidery thread used is untwisted floss silk. The
stitch is done counting the weave of the cloth. Hence, a
thick and even weave material is used - mainly Khadi.
Work is carried out on the wrong side. In view of the long
stitches on the right side, for the designs and the short
stitches and change of directions on the wrong side. Cross
stitch and double running stitch is also done. |

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