Embroidery of Uttar Pradesh

Chikan embroidery is a very attractive and delicate style enhanced through the use of a single color. The origin of the word Chikan has not been traced. Perhaps it originated from the word Chekeen or Sequin - a coin valued at about four Rupees which was then current in several parts of India. It may be that the embroidery was sold for a price in terms of the Chekken

The Gangetic valley in Uttar Pradesh and Lucknow in particular have been the home of this dignified, mild and fascinating style of embroidery. 'Noor Jahan' wife of the Mughal emperor Jehangir is said to have introduced the Chikan to the country, and some designs still exist and are said to be her personal creation.

The climate condition of the Gangetic valley and the mode of dress are particularly suited to this style. The charm of this style is in its simplicity, miniature patterns and unbelievable evenness. This is best done on the finest muslin cloth. In olden days men's and women's apparel and shawls were made but now handkerchiefs, dinner mats, napkins, curtains, table cloth, gent's kurta's, saris and dupattas are very popular.

"Shadow work" consists of the stitches on a piece of cloth that cover the back of the cloth in the close herringbone style or 'Katoo'. The original shadow work consists of fabric cut out in the form of daintily rounded leaves and is stitched on the wrong side of the cloth.

The right side presents the shadow. Back stitch, usual daring stitch and murri work (spike like stem stitch), french knot and netting-like work are used in this style. Very light colours for the background fabric and mostly white thread are used for embroidery.

Rampur and Aligarh have a special applique done with floral designs known as phool Patti. This is largely used for gent's costumes and caps, especially when it has to be given an elegant look. The designs are mainly of scrolling floral and leafy patterns and paisley at times.

Types of Embroidery in Uttar Pradesh -

  * Wave Stitch Filling
  * Straight Stitch
  * Double Back Stitch or Closed
   Herringbone Stitch
  * Point De Paris
  * Shadow Applique